Aups, Provence: The village that won't let you go

Aups Provence: Those who come here often don't search, but find exactly what remains. This small village in the Haut-Var in Southern France isn't a tourist hotspot. It's an insider tip for anyone who wants to experience Provence in its authentic, original form.

Just like our guest Mareike, who came to Aups for the first time six years ago – actually just passing through.

"I just wanted to stop for a moment. A coffee, a look at the market. I ended up staying for a week."

Between lavender fields, ancient plane trees, and the scent of fresh baguettes, Aups reveals its quiet beauty. The weekly market fills the village square with sounds and aromas on Saturdays. And just a few steps away, hiking trails begin, leading you through quiet olive groves and past forgotten stone walls.

Mareike will tell you herself what she found here and why she keeps coming back.

Saturday morning at Place Frédéric Mistral: The scent of lavender, roasted chicken, and ripe tomatoes fills the air. Vendors set up their stalls between shady plane trees; people shout, taste, and laugh. Our guest Mareike, who actually only wanted to make a quick stop, stayed the entire morning.

"I thought I'd just grab a quick coffee. Two hours later, my backpack was full—with cheese, olives, soap, and the feeling of having arrived."

Market days in Aups:

📍 Wednesday & Saturday ⏰ 8:00 a.m.–12:30 p.m. 📌 Place Frédéric Mistral (center) 🅿️ Parking: Limited parking is available in the center of Aups. Alternatively, you can park at the Intermarché on the southern edge of town (approx. 15–20 minutes walk to the center).

Here's what you'll discover:

• Fresh fruit & vegetables directly from the farm
• Goat cheese, sausage, olive oil, honey, herbs
• Handmade soaps & lavender products
• Flowers, textiles, ceramics & everyday goods

The atmosphere: Authentic, relaxed, unpretentious. Instead of the tourist crowds, you'll meet locals here chatting, tasting, and shopping.

Mareike's tip: "I simply sat down at the Grand Café du Cours, right on the square. Café crème, people-watching, and the market life unfolds like a little play."

Sometimes it's not the place that moves you, but the people. For Mareike, it was the conversations with those who live here: the elderly winemaker who told her stories about the vines while tasting his cuvée, or the goat farmer selling her fresh chèvres by the roadside – while casually philosophizing about the weather, the olive harvest, and today's youth.

These encounters don't happen planned. They arise while strolling through the alleys, buying lavender oil, or enjoying a glass of rosé outdoors. And they often linger longer in the memory than any vantage point.

Special recommendation for gourmets: Anyone visiting Aups between the end of November and March should definitely head to the truffle market – every Thursday morning. Here, local producers sell their black diamonds directly in the market square – with impressive expertise and a great deal of pride.

📍 Aups Truffle Market 🕰 Thursdays, approx. 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m. 📅 Only during truffle season (late November to March)

For those who want to delve even deeper, a visit to the small but informative Maison de la Truffe d'Aups et du Verdon truffle museum is worthwhile. Here you can learn all about the cultivation, history, and cultural significance of truffles in Provence – including a tasting in the attached shop.

Waking up in Aups, Provence, doesn't require a long journey to immerse yourself in nature. The trails begin right outside the front door – quiet, pristine, and full of southern French sensuality. No one needs spectacular Instagram spots here. The landscape itself tells enough.

Grotte Sainte-Madeleine Circular Trail

A classic circular trail that brings the region's authenticity to life.

• 📍 Starting point: Aups
• 🚶 Length: approx. 8.6 km
• ⏱ Duration: approx. 2 hours 30 minutes
• 🥾 Difficulty: Medium
• 🌿 Highlights: A hidden rock chapel, Mediterranean flora, and unobstructed views over the hills of the Haut-Var.

Tip: Start early in the morning, when the paths are empty and the light over the olive groves is particularly soft.

Cascade de Sillans

For a half-day trip, the short drive (approx. 20 minutes) to the Cascade de Sillans waterfall is worth it. Here, a turquoise-green natural wonder awaits you, which – framed by lush greenery – appears almost tropical.

• 📍 Location: Sillans-la-Cascade
• 🚗 Directions: approx. 20 minutes from Aups
• ⏱ Duration: 1.5–2 hours including a walk
• 📸 Note: Swimming has been prohibited for several years due to nature conservation reasons – but the view alone is worth it.

Whether it's a chapel or a cascade: the nature around Aups in Provence needs no filter. It's there if you look for it – and often even more beautiful when you simply find it.

Ending the Day

After a day of hiking, there's only one perfect ending for our guest Mareike: a plate of typical Provençal home-cooked food at the small restaurant Le Saint-Marc. Pair with a glass of local rosé. Simple, honest, just right.

Tip: If you want to end the evening quietly, follow the small road behind the church up to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Délivrance viewpoint. From here, you can see over the tiled roofs of Aups to the rolling hills – especially atmospheric at sunset.

"I sat there alone, with a leftover baguette and some wine from the market. It was nothing special – and yet everything."

If you really want to experience the Aups region of Provence, you shouldn't just stop by, you should stay. Casapilot has the perfect temporary home for you.

Our accommodation in Provence

A stylish holiday home in the heart of Provence, in a very quiet location.

The features: A spacious terrace with a view of the countryside, a fully equipped kitchen for shopping at the market, cozy bedrooms, and charming details such as natural stone walls and Provençal ceramics.

What guests particularly appreciate:

• The proximity to the villages, hiking trails, and cafés
• The tranquility – even in midsummer
• The feeling of not just being a tourist, but part of Provence

Whether for a long weekend or two relaxing weeks, Casapilot holiday homes turn Provence into a retreat with character.

Location & Arrival

Aups is located in the Var department, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region – nestled between rolling hills and just a stone's throw from the Verdon Natural Park. The best way to reach the village is by car to fully enjoy the surrounding nature.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are ideal: mild climate, blooming landscapes, and golden vineyards – and significantly fewer visitors than in midsummer.

Nearby attractions

• Lac de Sainte-Croix: Turquoise swimming lake, perfect for picnics and canoeing
• Gorges du Verdon: The "Grand Canyon of Europe" – spectacular views, hiking trails and kayaking routes
• Tourtour: One of the most beautiful villages in France, with views all the way to the Mediterranean

Aups was never planned for me, and that's precisely why it was so special. I came passing through, stayed for a week, and have returned every year since.

It's the little things: the smile of a market woman, the quiet view over the hills at sunset, the scent of lavender in the alleys. Here, you feel how slow-paced real life can be.

Aups doesn't have sights you can just tick off. It has an atmosphere you can take with you. And that's exactly what makes this place the heart of Provence for me.